What's Unlucky About the 13th?

Buon giorno, mama! (Good morning, Mom!)

Today is Friday the 13th, but I think the only unlucky thing about today is that it means our week in Italy is almost over. I can't believe how quickly it has gone. I am trying to figure out how to get a month's worth of gelato home, but even if I could keep it frozen, I don't think the customs folks would let me bring it over.

Today was Rome module day and I had my group to take to the Galleria Borghese to see the works of one of my favorite sculptors, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. I think some of the students are interested because several of Bernini's works are featured in the Dan Brown book (and now movie) Angels and Demons. I told the students that Dan Brown probably picked Bernini because he was such a prolific artist and his works are all over Rome. We were going to see his Triton Fountain which was near the metro stop on our way, six sculptures and two paintings of his in the gallery, and then visit Santa Maria della Vittorio to see his masterpiece The Ecstasy of St. Theresa.

The Galleria Borghese is the former villa of Cardinal Borghese who was the nephew to Pope Paul V. Being the relative of a pope back in the day was a good business move. You got promoted within the church and could make a lot of money. Fortunately for art nerds like me, he used a lot of his money and influence to commission work from talented folks like Bernini and it is on display for us today.

Our module was an early one, as the galley has strict limits on the number of people who may enter at one time and you purchase tickets for a specific time slot. Our tickets were for the 9-11 a.m. opening, and we were to be there approximately 30 minutes in advance or they could release your tickets to anyone who might be on a wait list. That meant we needed to be out the door around 7:45 to make sure we were there around 8:30. The students weren't exactly thrilled to be up and at 'em so early, but it was a beautiful day and a little walking perked us all up.

When we got off the metro, we had to walk up the well known Via Veneto to get to the gallery. I pointed out to the students that we would pass three notable landmarks on our way. In reverse order they were: one of the ancient Roman walls of the city, the Palazzo Margherita, and the Hard Rock Cafe. I am pleased to report that the students were more interested in the Roman walls than the Hard Rock Cafe.

We got our tickets--which are works of art in themselves, mamma--and went in to look at some awesome art. It was nice to see our students truly enjoying some spectacular works of art. Occasionally, one would come up to me and say "I really like this one."

After we left the gallery, Taryn and I had students fill out short reflection sheets about the gallery and Bernini. They were easy questions; we just wanted students to answer What was your favorite art work and why? and Did you like Bernini's David better than Michelangelo's (in Florence)? Why or why not? Jesse looked a bit concerned about filling out her reflection sheet. "I don't know anything about art," she said. "It doesn't matter if you know anything about art or any of the artists," I answered, "did you like the stuff you saw? Are you glad you came and would you like to look at art like this again someday?" "I did like it," she said. "So tell me why you liked it, even if you can't remember the artists' names." That seemed to put her mind at ease and she filled out the rest of her sheet. Our educational modules aren't about memorizing a bunch of names and dates, it's about exposing students to history, art, music, and philosophy in ways that can't happen in the classroom. As long as they learn something and have a positive experience learning it, I consider it a success.

We walked to see The Ecstasy of St. Theresa and, at least for me, it was a thrill to see it again. To stand in front of that masterpiece and know I was standing in front of the altar where Bernini himself often came to pray was pretty cool. This whole trip is pretty awe-inspiring when you think about it. I have walked where Roman emperors and popes have walked, and have knelt at altars where genius (Bernini) had knelt. I find it all pretty humbling. I hope the students get that same feeling too.

Our module was officially over and most of the group took off to shop or explore. Four students stayed with Taryn and I and the six of us decided to have lunch together. Eyre lived in Rome for a few months when she was much younger, so I suggested she use her Roman senses to find us a good, reasonably priced restaurant. She squinted her eyes, looked about and said,"This way." We followed her for a few blocks and she found a little sidewalk cafe called "La Famiglia" or "The Family." We had a lovely lunch and it was nice to visit with the students in a leisurely setting. We were served bread before the meal and it was a round, flat bread that looked like a pizza crust. Elisha doesn't like toppings on her pizza, so when the bread came we told her it was the perfect pizza for her. She said, "Almost. It just needs some sauce." That made us laugh.

After the meal, Taryn had to leave for an appointment and two of the other students left as well. Two remaining students asked if I could show them how to get to the Trevi Fountain from where we were. I said sure, so off we went. Along the way we passed a large church called Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martieri, or St. Mary of the Saints and Martyrs. We decided to stop in. What a serendipitous find. The outside of the church has old Roman walls, but the inside is all Renaissance. Turns out this building was originally a Roman bath and a pope asked Michelangelo to convert it into a Christian church. To say he did a fine job would be an understatement. We spent some time there taking photos and looking like complete tourists.

We did make it to the Trevi Fountain and then I suggested that we go by a couple of other Bernini statues on the way back to the hotel. (I really am an art nerd, aren't I?) We saw Bernini's elephant outside Santa Maria sopra Minerva and then went to the Piazza Navona to see his Four Rivers Fountain. Last year it was encased in scaffolding so it was a treat for me to see it out in the open this year. Of course, that was also a good excuse to stop for gelato; you know, so we could sit and admire the artwork a bit longer.

Once we finished our gelato, we headed across the Ponte Sant' Angelo and I reminded the students that Bernini designed a couple of the angel statues on that bridge. We walked past St. Peters' Square, in which Bernini designed the colonnades, and then back to the hotel before 5. I felt as though I had fulfilled my duty as the resident art nerd.

Around 6:30 I came down to find others who might be interested in dinner. We ended up with a group of 12 and went back to Zigaetana because 1) the food was good, and 2) it was only two blocks from the hotel and we were all beginning to tire from a week full of exploring Italy.

Once again I had a great meal. I had tonarelli with a sauce made from pecorino cheese, olive oil and pepper, and it was topped with cubes of cooked pumpkin. I know it sounds like an odd combination, but it was really tasty. For dessert I had the crema di caffe. Once again it was buonissimo! A full day of art and exploring followed by a full belly of wonderful food. I could get used to this kind of lifestyle.

Time to head for bed, mamma. Tomorrow morning we walk into another country, Vatican City. I can't believe we are down to our final day in Italy.

alla prossima,
your loving son,